Chitubox print settings for Elegoo saturn - Kirby Research

Source: Luke Juden

Saturn was my first printer (aside from the Photon I borrowed from a friend for a bit, and liked.) So I really was starting all of this cold with what I could learn on line.

  • Printer setup: I've used exclusively Elegoo water soluble resin, usually grey (sometimes blue or red). I recently got my wham bam flex plates and I love that thing. It makes removal from the build plate fast and easy and perfect every time. I've been using PTFE lubricant on the FEP lately too but not sure if it matters.
  • The issue: The Saturn is not the Mars, nor is it any similarly sized printer. You have a big vat. That means more potential travel from flex on the FEP. It also means potentially much greater suction forces if you're doing a big print. As a result, you can't just expect what works on the Mars to work here. The factor defaults are... questionable. I've had some successes, but I've had a lot more successes lately deviating from them. (For an idea of the kind of prints, I've been printing the parts for the Aether lately at and had win after win after win.)

Another point is that there's probably not one set of ideal settings for all jobs. Small jobs with low suction forces can probably be done faster by using different settings. Printing a big piece flat to the plate is a different matter. The settings here have been working very well for me with bigger prints/pieces. That said, they're probably not ideal and I doubt I'm close to the "edge" which means my prints are probably taking longer than they need to. Maybe I'll try to push the envelope some.

  • Layer height: .05mm - default value and I haven't touched it
  • Bottom layer count: 5 - default value and I haven't touched it
  • Transition layer count: 10 - default value and I haven't touched it
  • Transition type: Linear - default value and I haven't touched it

Exposure time: 4.2 seconds - a lot higher than default range, and while the mono screen can cure resin faster, you need to combat higher suction forces.

  • Bottom exposure time: 50 seconds - same reason as the exposure time. This might make the print hard to remove, but the flex plate completely eliminates this problem so I'm not sure.
  • Light off delays - 0, haven't touched them
  • Bottom lift distance: 9mm - 3DPrintingPro had a video on this recently. A bigger FEP means more possible deflection and a need to move the plate farther. He suggested in a comment 8mm, 9mm even 10mm depending on the print specifically for the saturn in one of the comments.
  • Lift distance: 8mm - I made a judgment call and went with 9mm on bottom lift, and 8mm here.
  • Bottom lift speed: 35mm/min. Lift speed may have been something nobody thought much about on smaller printers; I'm not really sure. But more suction means you need to move a little slower. Another thread on this sub suggested 35mm instead of 70 and I went with it. Yes it means you're almost doubling your print times, but I was at a point where one slow success was better two fast failures and I was frustrated. For the few bottom layers where suction is likely to be higher with a supported model, I went to 35mm.
  • Lift speed: 45mm. Initially I cut this to 35mm for the same reasons as above, but for speed-of-print sake I decided to try to push it up a little. Of all the things I'm likely to try to press my luck on, this is the one since it'll have a lot of impact on print speed.
  • Retract speed: 70mm, default. This isn't "retract speed", this is the speed at which the plate goes back down into the resin vat after a lift. There was no need to slow this down. (I had done so, and was dumb. I put it back to default.)

I'll be fascinated to see what others say. I am a noob and hoping to learn better.

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